It's the time of year when kids' sports, after-school lessons, work commitments and community meetings kick into high gear, the idea of "spare time" becomes a joke and the simple act of getting dinner on the table seems not so simple after all. It's the time of year to yank the slow cooker out of mothballs and fire it up.
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A new book, "The Gourmet Slow Cooker" (Volume 2) by Lynn Alley (10 Speed Press, 2006), rekindled my interest in this underused appliance. As usual, I honed in on the recipes that take 8 hours of cooking. I mean, the point of using a slow cooker is to have it hard at work while I am hard at work (i.e., outside of the home). A recipe that calls for 4 hours of slow cooking doesn't quite cut it; few of us can run home at midday to start the darn thing. I suppose those recipes for shorter cooking times are useful on weekends, when you are out of the house for just a few hours, say, at a soccer game or church or grocery shopping. Nevertheless, the recipes below can be left to cook by themselves during the workday.
Note: Once the dish is cooking, resist the temptation to peek; every time you lift the lid, it takes the slow cooker 20 minutes to get back to temperature. Any leftovers should be removed from the slow cooker, covered and refrigerated. Do not reheat leftovers in the slow cooker. Use the stovetop or microwave.
KOREAN-STYLE RIBS
3 pounds pork or beef ribs, trimmed of excess fat
1/2 cup soy sauce
1 cup freshly squeezed orange or tangerine juice
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon finely minced or grated fresh peeled ginger
3 cloves garlic, finely minced
2 tablespoons toasted (Asian) sesame oil (see note)
2 tablespoons brown sugar or honey
3 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, for garnish (see note)
2 scallions, green parts only, thinly sliced, for garnish
Spray the inside of the slow-cooker stoneware with cooking spray to prevent sticking.
Place a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the ribs and cook, turning, for 15 to 20 minutes, until browned on all sides. Transfer to the slow cooker.
In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, orange juice, vinegar, ginger, garlic, sesame oil and brown sugar and mix well. Pour the sauce over the ribs. Cover and cook on low for 6 to 8 hours, until the meat is very tender.
To serve, arrange the ribs on plates or serving platters and spoon sauce over top. Garnish with the sesame seeds and scallions and serve at once.
Note: Toasted sesame oil is widely sold in supermarkets. (Oil made with raw sesame seeds is usually found in health-food stores.) If you can only buy untoasted (raw) sesame seeds, toast them for a few minutes in a dry skillet set over medium heat.
Yield: 4 servings
WHITE-BEAN CHILI
2 cups dried white beans, rinsed
6 cups chicken stock or water
1 cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large white onion, chopped
4 to 6 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 (4-ounce) can diced green chilies
1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican oregano
1/2 cup half-and-half or heavy (whipping) cream
3 fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
salt
1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro, for garnish
Spray the inside of the slow-cooker stoneware with cooking spray to prevent sticking.
Combine the beans, water and wine in the slow cooker. Place a large skillet over medium-high and add the oil. Add the onion and saute for about 10 minutes, until lightly browned. Add the garlic and saute for 5 minutes more.
Using a spice grinder, a very clean coffee grinder or a mortar and pestle, crush the cumin and coriander seeds and add them to the skillet. Stir well.
Transfer the contents of the skillet to the slow cooker and add the chilies. Cover and cook on low for 6 to 8 hours, until the beans are tender. About 30 minutes before serving, stir in the half-and-half and basil and season to taste with salt.
Ladle into bowls and serve, garnished with cilantro.
Yield: 4 servings
MEXICAN PORK AND HOMINY STEW
1 pound pork (any inexpensive, boneless cut such as shoulder or butt), trimmed and cut into bite-sized pieces (you can also use boneless, skinless chicken)
salt and pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion, chopped
1 bell pepper (red or green, or half of each, for color), chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
3 (15-ounce) cans yellow or white hominy, with liquid (see note)
1 cup canned chicken broth, plus more, if needed
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon hot red-pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon sugar
For serving:
1 lime, cut into wedges
hot sauce and chopped fresh cilantro (optional)
cornbread or corn tortillas, warmed and brushed with melted butter
Spray the inside of the slow-cooker stoneware with cooking spray to prevent sticking.
Season the pork with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a skillet set over medium-high heat and, working in batches, if necessary, cook the pork, turning frequently, until it begins to brown, about 7 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to the slow cooker. Add the onion, bell pepper and garlic to the skillet and cook, stirring, about 5 minutes, until the vegetables begin to soften. With a rubber spatula, scrape the contents of the skillet into the slow cooker.
Add the remaining ingredients, cover and cook on LOW for 8 to 10 hours; it will be thick and stewlike. If you prefer a soupier version, add more chicken broth; if you are doing this toward the end of cooking, heat the broth almost to a boil before adding it to the slow cooker.
Serve in bowls with lime wedges. (Lime juice really brings out the flavor in this stew.) Pass the hot sauce and cilantro (if using).
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Note: Hominy is corn that has undergone a complex process called "nixtamalization," which enhances its protein value. It is terrific in chili or any bean dish. Look for canned hominy in the vegetable, Mexican/Hispanic or "international" section of most supermarkets.
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