When my youngest was in grade school, her class began a unit on Africa, and she asked me if she might cook some African foods as part of her studies. This was a few years before the Internet offered access to recipes throughout the world, so I felt lucky when I unearthed the lone African cookbook in my collection. It was a "safari"-themed book that had been given to me, full of menus for "game drive picnics," brunch in the bush and dinner at sundown under the acacia tree with "smiling muchindas" (waiters) handing out round, ice-cold gin-and-tonics. At any moment, I thought, as I flipped through the pages, I'll be seeing happy lion cubs singing "Hakuna Matata." The Africa in this book was beautiful, for sure, but it seemed that reality had been airbrushed out of the picture.
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Samuelsson writes with a sense of sadness that most newspaper stories about Africa are about war, famine, AIDS and corruption.
"It's true that a lot of bad things happen in Africa," he writes, "but this is not the only Africa I know."
Samuelsson's Africa is a land of great beauty; generous, community-minded people; and fragrant, beckoning food. He writes of how the African diaspora sent the flavors of the continent out to the United States, Europe, South America and Australia. He sees African influences in Harlem eateries, the soul food of the American South and the jerk dishes of the Caribbean, and he embraces the myriad flavors. No reality has been airbrushed out. You will read about Libyan woman hand-rolling semolina dough into tiny couscous, or about Ethiopian women learning to slaughter and prepare chickens, but not about a "smiling muchinda" chilling cocktails.
Forget "Hakuna Matata" and learn, instead, the concept of "ubuntu" - the idea, says Samuelsson, "that there is a universal bond of sharing that connects all people, and calls for humanity towards others." Ubuntu, he says, is the foundation of the new South African government. The book, as if in testimony, carries a foreword by Archbishop Desmond Tutu.
This book is a keeper for anyone with a spirit of adventure. Read and learn. Cook and taste and learn even more. "I hope that you too will come to have ubuntu in your heart," writes Samuelsson, "and Africa on your mind."
MANGO COUSCOUS (LIBYA)
1 cup couscous
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
1 mango, peeled, pitted and cut into 1-inch cubes (about 1 cup)
1 jalapeno pepper, stem, seeds and ribs removed, finely chopped
1/2 cup raisins
1 ripe tomato, stemmed and chopped
juice of 1 lime
1/4 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro sprigs, chopped
1/4 cup loosely packed fresh parsley sprigs, chopped
salt
Prepare the couscous according to the package directions and set aside. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large skillet set over high heat. Add the garlic, mango and jalapeno and cook, stirring, until the mango begins to color lightly. Stir in the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, the cooked couscous, the raisins, tomato, lime juice, cilantro and parsley and toss to heat through. Season with salt to taste. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Yield: 4 servings
Recipe from "The Soul of a New Cuisine" by Marcus Samuelsson (John Wiley & Sons, 2006)
STIR-FRIED BEEF STEW (ETHIOPIA)
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1 cup thinly sliced red onions
1-1/2 pounds hanger steak or beef tenderloin, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1-1/2 tablespoons chili powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 garlic cloves, peeled and cut into quarters
3 tomatoes, chopped or 1-1/2 cups roughly chopped canned tomatoes
2 jalapeno peppers, stems, seeds and ribs removed, thinly sliced
1/2 cup dry red wine
Melt the butter in a wok or a large skillet set over high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring constantly, until they begin to color around the edges, about 2 minutes. Add the meat, sprinkle with the salt, and stir-fry until browned on all sides, about 3 minutes each side. Stir in the chili powder, cardamom, ginger, cumin, cloves, pepper and garlic. Tilt the pan away from you to avoid the steam that will rise and carefully add the tomatoes, jalapenos and wine. Simmer for 1 minute, then season with salt, if necessary. Serve immediately.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
Recipe from "The Soul of a New Cuisine" by Marcus Samuelsson (John Wiley & Sons, 2006)
MALATA (MOZAMBIQUE)
1/3 cup peanut oil
1 cup unsalted peanuts
1 pound butternut squash, peeled and seeded and cut into 1-inch dice
1 medium onion, peeled and diced
4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
4 bird's-eye chilies, seeds and ribs removed, finely chopped
1 (3-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
4 dozen littleneck clams, scrubbed
1/2 cup bottled clam juice
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 cups coarsely chopped spinach
2 limes, quartered
Heat the peanut oil in a large skillet set over high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the peanuts, squash, onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until the onion is translucent, about 10 minutes. Stir in the chilies and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Add the clams, clam juice, wine, thyme and salt. Cover and cook until the clams open, about 10 minutes. As they open, transfer them to a large bowl. Discard any unopened clams. Add the spinach to the skillet, cover and cook until the spinach is wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Return the clams to the pan and warm them through. Divide the stew among 4 warm serving bowls and serve with lime wedges.
Yield: 4 servings
Recipe from "The Soul of a New Cuisine" by Marcus Samuelsson (John Wiley & Sons, 2006)
Marialisa Carta is the author of "Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family" (Perigee, 2005). For more information, go to www.marialisacalta.com.
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