Most of us know it as "Mardi Gras," the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent. But in some English-speaking parts of the world, like Great Britain, Ireland and Australia, Mardi Gras is known as "Pancake Day." Why pancakes? Because they were a perfect way to use up the fat and eggs that would be forbidden during Lent. The pancakes served are not our thick, American flapjacks, but thin ones, as one source tells us, "similar to a French crepe."
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The only problem is that crepes are a bit tricky to make. Pappas does an excellent job giving how-to advice, troubleshooting tips and recipes, but my results did not often resemble the photographs. While the book features filled crepes folded in beautiful designs - The Baton, The Half Moon, The Triangle, The Cup and The Purse, among them - I had trouble producing a crepe that was flexible enough for anything but the simplest roll (The Roll) or - even better - for stacking (The Stack). Every time I tried a more advanced fold, the crepe would tear. Then I would be left with a bowl full of tasty crepe filling and shreds of crepes in which to roll it. I solved this problem by simply layering crepes and filling in a simple stack, starting and ending with a crepe. If your crepes are more flexible, by all means, practice origami with them, but if you have trouble, the stacking method will come to the rescue. I also found a recipe in my files that I think results in a slightly more resilient crepe.
I also learned it really helps to have a crepe or omelet pan, whose gently curved sides help immeasurably in removing and flipping the crepe. I did have some success using a regular 8-inch skillet, but I ran into trouble flipping the crepes, which wound up with torn edges. Again, I used them for stacking, not rolling.
Below is a crepe recipe from my files, and Pappas' recipes for fillings. I acquired this crepe recipe many years ago while visiting a sick friend. In the hospital elevator, I struck up a conversation with an energetic orderly of French-Canadian heritage; he gave me his recipe for crepes. I still have the handwritten directions for "Crepes by Gaston." Merci, Gaston, and happy Pancake Day.
Cook's note: Crepes are wonderful simply sprinkled with confectioners' sugar, drizzled with maple syrup or slathered with peanut butter and jelly.
SWEET AND SAVORY CREPES
For savory crepes:
1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more, if needed
2 cups milk
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 generous tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
water, if needed
For sweet crepes:
recipe above
1 tablespoon sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
For cooking:
several tablespoons unsalted butter
Combine all of the ingredients in a blender, food processor or bowl, whisking vigorously. Cover and refrigerate for an hour or so, or up to 24.
Reblend or whisk the batter. It should be the consistency of heavy cream. If it is too thin, add some flour, a spoonful at a time. If it is too thick, thin with water.
Lightly butter a skillet or crepe pan and set it over medium-high heat. When hot, pour in the batter to just coat the pan; a 6-inch pan will take a scant 1/4 cup of batter, an 8- to 10-inch pan a scant 1/3 cup. Tilt the pan in all directions so the batter covers the surface. Cook until the top is looking set and the edges are browning. This should take about a minute. Turn. If using a crepe pan with curved sides, your fingers will work best. If using a skillet, use a metal spatula. Cook on the other side until golden, 15 to 30 seconds. Remove from the pan and, if using immediately, place in a warm oven as you make the remaining crepes. If you are not serving immediately, cool them and wrap in plastic and freeze. Thaw before using.
Yield: 12 to 18 crepes, depending on size
CHICKEN, SWEET-CORN AND RED-PEPPER CREPES FILLING
1/2 onion, peeled and sliced
1 (1-inch) piece of fresh ginger, peeled
3 boneless, skinless chicken-breast halves
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
about 2 cups fresh corn kernels (from 2 ears of corn) or frozen kernels, thawed
1/2 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and diced
1 shallot, peeled and chopped, or 1 scallion (including green tops), trimmed and chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 large egg
3/4 cup ricotta cheese
1/2 cup shredded Jarlsberg or Monterey Jack or pepper-jack cheese
2 teaspoons minced fresh sage or 1/2 teaspoon dried sage
salt and pepper
8 prepared crepes (savory recipe), at least 7 inches in diameter
grated Parmesan cheese
Preheat the oven to 350 F. Lightly oil a 9-by-13-inch baking pan.
Place 1/2 inch water in a large skillet. Add the onion and ginger and bring just to a simmer. Add the chicken and poach until no longer pink inside, at least 15 minutes. Drain, discarding the liquid. Cool and dice.
In a skillet set over medium-high heat, add 1 tablespoon of the oil and saute the corn, peppers, shallot (or scallion) and garlic for a few minutes, until the vegetables are soft. Set aside. In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg, ricotta, shredded cheese and sage. Mix in the cooked chicken and vegetables. Season with salt and pepper.
Spoon a scant 1/2 cup filling in the center of each crepe and roll to enclose. Arrange the crepes in the prepared baking pan, brush them with the remaining tablespoon of oil and sprinkle generously with Parmesan cheese. (Alternatively, lay a crepe in an oiled 8-inch baking pan, spoon 1/2 cup of filling on it and repeat with remaining crepes and filling.) Bake for 15 minutes, or until heated through. Serve at once.
Yield: 4 servings
Recipe slightly adapted from "Crepes: Sweet & Savory Recipes for the Home Cook" by Lou Seibert Pappas (Chronicle, 2006)
ICE-CREAM CREPES WITH CARAMEL SAUCE
3 to 6 tablespoons chopped pecans or walnuts
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup half-and-half
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
1 pint coffee or vanilla ice cream or frozen yogurt
6 (6- or 7-inch) prepared, warm crepes (dessert recipe)
Preheat the oven to 325 F and toast the nuts until golden and toasty-smelling; start checking at 5 minutes and watch carefully to avoid burning. Remove and allow to cool.
Make the caramel sauce: In a small, heavy saucepan set over medium heat, heat the sugar without stirring until it melts and turns a light amber color. Carefully and slowly stir in the half-and-half (beware of splatters), butter and corn syrup. Cook, stirring, until smooth and slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.
Place each prepared crepe on a dessert plate. Place 2 small scoops of ice cream on each crepe and fold gently to cover. (You may not use all of the ice cream.) Drizzle with the caramel sauce and sprinkle with the nuts, using 1/2 to 1 tablespoon per serving. Serve at once.
Yield: 6 servings
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