Bites Back

It's readily available in the grocery store - that large white root languishing in the corner of the produce bin - but it's a good bet that most of us sail right by fresh horseradish without a second look.

Horseradish - like the regular, round, red radish - is a member of the mustard family, hence its pungent, peppery flavor and sinus-clearing abilities. It has been grown all over the world for millennia, was popular in ancient Greece and Rome, and is one of the five bitter herbs that traditionally appear on the Passover table. It was used as an herbal remedy for such conditions as nasal swelling, edema, poor digestion and infections. Also known as "German mustard," horseradish became an acceptable condiment in England in the 1600s, but then - according to a 16th-century herbalist quoted in "The Cook's Essential Dictionary" by Jacques L. Rolland (Robert Rose, 2004) - only for "country people and labouring men." He added that horseradish was "too strong for tender and gentle stomachs." John Mariani, writing in "The Dictionary of American Food and Drink" (Hearst Books, 1983), says the name "horseradish" first appeared in print in 1590, and that its name "probably derives from its connotation of being as strong as a horse." Christine Ammer, writing in "Fruitcakes & Couch Potatoes" (Plume, 1995), says instead that "the prefix 'horse' for plants tends to denote a larger or coarser variety."

Find horseradish in the supermarket in spring through fall. When buying, choose roots - or pieces of roots - that are firm, without any shriveled spots. Store, wrapped in plastic, in the vegetable crisper of the fridge. If you buy more than you can use, simply peel, grate and freeze it, well wrapped, for up to two months. (This works with fresh ginger as well, although both roots will lose some of their pungency during storage.)

If you cook horseradish, it becomes quite mild, so Leanne Kitchen, author of "The Produce Bible" (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2007), recommends adding it to a stew or soup late in the cooking process if you want some "bite." She also suggests spiking applesauce with horseradish to serve with smoked fish, and she is the author of the Horseradish Cream recipe below.

It is perfectly acceptable to buy prepared horseradish - the white stuff is mixed with vinegar, the red stuff with beet juice - but it is also supremely easy to make your own. Mark Bittman, in "How to Cook Everything" (Wiley, 1998), gives us a basic recipe. Sara Foster gives us two tasty uses for the prepared horseradish in "Sara Foster's Causal Cooking" (Clarkson Potter, 2007), an excellent new compendium of fresh, easy meals. The vinaigrette from the steak-sandwich recipe would also be a perfect drizzle for raw oysters. The horseradish cream, from Kitchen's book, is excellent with smoked fish, or with roast or boiled beef.

PREPARED HORSERADISH

1 (12-inch) piece of fresh horseradish root, peeled and cut into chunks

about 1/2 cup white-wine vinegar or rice-wine vinegar

salt to taste

Place the horseradish chunks in the bowl of a food processor (a blender won't work) with 1/4 cup vinegar. Process until finely minced, scraping the sides of the work bowl occasionally. Taste and add more vinegar (up to 1/4 cup) and salt as needed to make a paste. Store in the refrigerator; a sterilized jar is best. It will keep indefinitely.

Yield: about 1 cup

Recipe from "How to Cook Everything" by Mark Bittman (Wiley, 1998)

POACHED CHICKEN BREASTS WITH SPRING VEGETABLES AND HORSERADISH

4 boneless, skinless chicken-breast halves, rinsed and patted dry

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 cups chicken broth

6 black peppercorns

4 fresh thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves

1 lemon, halved

4 to 6 baby carrots, trimmed and scrubbed

4 to 6 small leeks, washed, drained and cut into 3-inch pieces

4 to 6 baby radishes, trimmed and scrubbed

8 ounces pencil-thin asparagus, trimmed and cut into 3-inch pieces

6 ounces sugar-snap peas or snow peas, stem ends and string removed

1/4 cup prepared horseradish, homemade or store-bought

Season both sides of the chicken breasts with salt and pepper.

Pour the chicken broth into a large pot and add the peppercorns, thyme and bay leaves. Squeeze the juice from both halves of the lemon into the broth, and drop the squeezed lemon halves in also. Bring to a low boil over high heat. Add the chicken, carrots, leeks and radishes; reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 to 18 minutes. Add the asparagus and peas, and cook for about 1 minute, until tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, discard the lemon halves from the pot. Place 1 chicken breast in each of 4 shallow soup bowls. Spoon the broth and vegetables over the chicken breasts, and top each with a large dollop of horseradish.

Yield: 4 servings

Recipe from "Sara Foster's Causal Cooking: More Fresh Simple Recipes from Foster's Market" (Clarkson Potter, 2007)

GRILLED STEAK SANDWICHES WITH HORSERADISH VINAIGRETTE

For the vinaigrette:

1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish

juice of 1/2 lemon

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the sandwiches:

1 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced into rounds

1 red or yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1-inch wide strips

2 (14-ounce) rib-eye steaks, 1-1/2 inches thick, or New York strip steaks, at room temperature

sea salt

4 crusty rolls (such as ciabatta or individual baguettes) or 1 long baguette cut into 4 sections

olive oil, for brushing bread

4 cups loosely packed arugula

freshly ground black pepper

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct grilling. Manipulate the burners on the gas grill - or the charcoal in a charcoal gill - to create one area that is very hot and one that is low to medium.

Make the vinaigrette: In a bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients. Set aside.

Grill the onion and pepper for about 3 minutes per side, until tender. Remove to a platter and cover loosely with foil to keep warm.

Season both sides of the steak with salt and grill for 5 to 6 minutes per side. Move the steak away from the direct heat, close the grill or cover the steak with foil, and cook for another 7 to 8 minutes, until done to your liking. (Food-safety experts say steak should be at least 145 F, or medium-rare. You can take it off the grill at 140 F, because it will keep cooking a little as it rests.) Transfer the steaks to a cutting board, cover loosely with foil and let rest for about 5 minutes.

While the steaks are resting, brush the cut side of the bread lightly with olive oil and place cut-side down on the grill for about 2 minutes, until lightly toasted.

Thinly slice the steaks across the grain, and lay the slices on the bottom halves of the toasted bread, dividing evenly. Top with the onion, bell pepper and arugula. Spoon the vinaigrette over them and season with salt and pepper. Place the remaining toast slices on the sandwiches and serve.

Yield: 4 servings

Recipe from "Sara Foster's Causal Cooking: More Fresh Simple Recipes from Foster's Market" (Clarkson Potter, 2007)

HORSERADISH CREAM

2/3 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons grated fresh horseradish

2 teaspoons lemon juice

pinch of sugar

Using an electric or hand-powered mixer, whip the cream until it starts to thicken, then fold in the remaining ingredients. The acid from the lemon juice and horseradish will thicken it some more; if you want it thicker, whip it a bit more, but be careful because it will separate if overwhipped. Serve with beets, smoked salmon or roast-beef dishes. Store in a sterilized jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Yield: 3/4 cup

Recipe from "The Produce Bible" by Leanne Kitchen (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2007)