Many folks who are not declared vegetarians are finding themselves going light on meat, whether for health or philosophical reasons. If your cholesterol is a bit high, or you limit your meat consumption to only (expensive) organic or locally raised meat, you probably find that animal protein is now an occasional indulgence. Whatever the reason, if you want to expand your meatless repertoire, look no further than "India's Vegetarian Cooking" by Monisha Bharadwaj (Kyle Books, 2007).

This festive dish of rice flavored with coconut and cashews is just one of an endless variety of tasty, meatless Indian meals. Photo credit: Photograph by William Heap for "India's Vegetarian Cooking" by Monisha Bharadwaj (Kyle Books, 2007)

India's tradition of vegetarianism goes back 2,000 years, says Bharadwaj, to the rise of Buddhism and Jainism, which promoted nonviolence. "Hindu priests, fearing that a great number of their people would convert (to the other religions), also began preaching against the killing of animals," she writes. Today, 85 percent of India is Hindu, and most - though not all - are vegetarians. Their diet is heavy in rice, beans and lentils. Spices - used originally to preserve foods - "are now added in extremely complex combinations to bring out the best flavors and textures in a dish."

One of the reasons Indian cuisine is so appealing is that it has been shaped by many influences: British, French, Portuguese, Iranian and Afghan among them. This makes for endless variety.

"There is a new way of cooking every few miles you travel," writes Bharadwaj. You don't have to travel far in her book to find something you'll like.

The recipes here are from Bharadwaj's cookbook and from an older volume, "Madhur Jaffrey's Quick & Easy Indian Cooking" (Chronicle, 1996).

PARSEE-STYLE COCONUT AND CASHEW RICE

3 tablespoons sunflower oil or other vegetable oil or ghee (see Cook's note)

1 medium onion, peeled and sliced

10 black peppercorns

3 whole cloves

3 cardamom pods, crushed slightly with the back of a spoon

2 bay leaves

1-1/2 cups water

1-1/2 cups basmati rice, washed and drained (available in most supermarkets)

1-1/2 cups unsweetened canned coconut milk (sold in the Asian aisle of the supermarket; stir well before measuring)

salt to taste

1 green bell pepper, seeded and sliced

3 tablespoons frozen green peas

2 tablespoons raisins

2 tablespoons cashews

Cook's note: Ghee is butter that has been melted, allowing the milk solids to sink to the bottom of the pan. It is then cooked until all the moisture has evaporated and the milk solids have begun to brown. It is sold in specialty stores.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil (or ghee) in a heavy saucepan and fry the onion until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add the whole spices and bay leaves and swirl around for 1 minute. Add the water, cover and bring to a boil. Add the rice to the pan along with 3/4 cup coconut milk. Season with salt. Return to a boil, then reduce heat and add the bell pepper.

As soon as the liquid has been mostly absorbed (about 10 minutes), add the remaining 3/4 cup coconut milk and the peas. Cover the pan and simmer until the rice is cooked through and tender (about 10 more minutes).

Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil (or ghee) in a small skillet, and fry the raisins and cashews for 1 minute. Spoon over the rice and serve.

Yield: 4 servings

Recipe slightly adapted from "India's Vegetarian Cooking" by Monisha Bharadwaj (Kyle Books, 2007)

SPICY PARSEE-STYLE WEDDING STEW

3 cloves garlic, peeled

5 dried red chilies, seeded and soaked in water for a couple of minutes

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

about 5 tablespoons sunflower oil or other vegetable oil

5 ounces mixed potatoes and sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed to make about 1 cup

5 ounces carrots, peeled and cubed to make about 1-1/3 cups

1 large onion, peeled and sliced

water, as needed

salt to taste

8 cherry tomatoes, stemmed, if needed

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon malt vinegar, cider vinegar or red-wine vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

Puree the garlic, chilies and cumin into a fine paste in a spice grinder, a clean coffee grinder, a mini-food processor or mortar and pestle.

Line a plate with paper towels. Set aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a deep frying pan, and fry the potato mixture until golden and just tender (about 10 minutes, but time will vary according to the size of the cubes). Drain on the lined plate and set aside. Add a scant tablespoon of oil to the same pan, heat and fry the carrots for a couple of minutes. Drain on the lined plate.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of the oil in a heavy pan and fry the onion until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic-spice paste and fry for 1 minute over low heat. Add a few tablespoons of water, as needed, to prevent sticking, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the fried potatoes and carrots and season with salt. Pour in about 1/4 cup of water, and blend the mixture well. Bring to a boil, and add the cherry tomatoes, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar and sugar. Cook for 5 minutes until the tomatoes soften and the sauce is thick, adding more water as necessary to make a thick stew. Serve hot.

Yield: 4 servings

Recipe from "India's Vegetarian Cooking" by Monisha Bharadwaj (Kyle Books, 2007)

MUSHROOM CURRY

1-1/2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

1 small onion, peeled and chopped

3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

1-1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons water

1 pound fresh mushrooms, any kind, cleaned and halved or quartered

6 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 tablespoons plain yogurt

1 teaspoon tomato paste

2 teaspoons ground coriander

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Cook's note: This is a curry, although it contains no curry powder. (No such thing exists in India.) The word "curry" comes from a Tamil word meaning "gravy."

Puree the ginger, onion, garlic and 3 tablespoons of the water in a blender or mini-food processor.

Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a nonstick skillet set over high heat. Add the mushrooms and stir-fry for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the mushrooms have lost their raw look. Transfer to a bowl and wipe out the pan.

Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil over high heat. Add the spice paste and stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes or until it starts turning brown. Add 1 tablespoon of the yogurt and fry for 30 seconds. Repeat, in two steps, with the remaining 2 tablespoons yogurt. Add the tomato paste and fry for 30 seconds. Add the coriander and stir. Add the remaining 1-1/4 cups water, the mushrooms and their juices, salt and cayenne. Stir and bring to a simmer. Turn the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve.

Yield: 4 ounces

Recipe from "Madhur Jaffrey's Quick & Easy Indian Cooking" (Chronicle, 1996)

Marialisa Calta is the author of "Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family" (Perigee, 2005). For more information, go to www.marialisacalta.com.