Camp-y food makes outdoors even better


Published/Last Modified on Tuesday, July 31, 2007 4:40 PM MDT


The late Teddy Roosevelt, a "gargantuan eater" (as a new book describes him), went on a weekend camping trip to Yosemite in 1903 and brought along two cooks. Most of us loading our backpacks and heading out for a weekend in the woods don't have that luxury. Most of us cook for ourselves, and what we tend to cook is something freeze-dried, instant, processed or otherwise: a poor excuse for food.


Campers, says the aptly named Scott Cookman, author of "The Great American Camping Cookbook," (Broadway Books, 2007), "routinely take too much food or too little, usually of the wrong kind." Worse, he writes, we make the mistake of abandoning fresh foods - which he calls "the soul of American camp cooking" - in favor of processed ones. Since, according to Cookman, a whopping 65 million Americans (one quarter of the population) venture forth into the wild for some form of camping - hiking, backpacking, car-camping, canoe-camping - so there are a lot of us in need of help. He provides a long list of fresh foods that keep well with and without refrigeration, several "grub lists" (for packing purposes), resources for buying both gear and foods and - thank goodness! - recipes.

To eat well while camping, you have to plan well, and then you have to be willing to ditch your plans. In other words, be flexible and creative. If you find ripe berries (and know that they are safe to eat), make berry pancakes or a cobbler (using Bisquick, flour or even granola for a topping). Fresh-caught fish and wild edibles (cress, sorrel, mushrooms) also make camping meals memorable. I spoke with a woman who was given bear meat while camping in the Northwest Territories of Alaska: She marinated it in rum and roasted it. Having only a few ingredients on hand in a teeny sailboat galley, a friend once threw together rice, nuts, fruit and spices and made a kind of curry that we still make and enjoy, even on dry land.

If you are not normally a confident cook, a campfire may be the way to improve. The truth is that food tastes better after a day outdoors. Try serving a slightly scorched chili at home and you'll face instant rejection; offer it around a campfire and your family will scarf it up and ask for seconds.

If a camping trip is on your calendar this summer, it's a good idea to get your culinary act together. Otherwise, when you head out to the state park, try hiring a cook.

BACKPACKER'S CARBONARA

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 pound smoked bacon, diced

1/2 large onion, peeled and chopped

3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

2 cups dry red wine or water

3 large eggs

6 ounces hard cheese (Parmesan or Romano), grated (about 2 cups)

1 pound uncooked pasta, such as linguine or fettuccine

salt and pepper

Put a large pot of water on to boil for the pasta. If it boils before you are ready to use it, just keep it at a lively simmer.

Put the oil, bacon and onion in a frying pan and heat over wood coals (or over medium heat, if using a camp stove). Saute, stirring, about 10 to 15 minutes or until the bacon and onion are browned; add the garlic and cook for a minute longer. Add the wine to the pan, simmer for 5 minutes and keep warm. Mix the eggs and cheese in a bowl and set aside.

Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to package directions until "al dente" (done but still firm to the teeth). Drain. Immediately pour the egg mixture over it and stir well. Then pour the bacon mixture over it. Stir again. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

Yield: feeds 4 hungry hikers

Recipe from "The Great American Camping Cookbook" by Scott Cookman (Broadway Books, 2007)

HAPLESS HUNTER STEW

2 cups dried beans (Great Northerns work well, but you can use any kind)

2 to 3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

2 large potatoes, chopped (peeling is optional)

1 large onion, peeled and chopped

4 celery ribs, trimmed and chopped

2 cups chopped cured meat (country-cured ham, Canadian bacon or dried sausage)

1 cup rice (regular, not instant)

1 cup corn (fresh, freeze-dried or canned)

about 1/2 cup brown sugar, or to taste

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Soak the dried beans overnight. If you find that too bothersome, there's an effective short cut: Just place the beans in a large pot, cover them with water, cover the pot and bring to a rolling boil for 2 minutes. Then let stand, covered, for an hour or so.

When you're ready to cook, drain the beans, put them in a stew pot, cover with 6 to 8 cups fresh water, bring to a boil and simmer for an hour. Go do something more interesting. The beans will be fine.

Add the garlic, potatoes, onion, celery, meat, rice and corn. At this point, feel free to add practically any other ingredients (fresh, dried or canned) you like. As with jazz, improvisation only improves a stew.

Cover and simmer another hour. Longer is fine you can't really overcook it. Occasionally toss in a few spoonfuls of the brown sugar, stir and taste. Toss in more if you like. Other than that, leave it alone unless you feel the need to shake in some freshly ground black pepper. Resist all temptation to add salt. If needed, add more liquid during cooking.

When you want, ladle into big bowls. Serve steaming hot, with crust bread or biscuits to sop up the gravy-like broth.

Yield: 4 servings

Recipe from "The Great American Camping Cookbook" by Scott Cookman (Broadway Books, 2007)

SAILBOAT CURRY WITH ALMONDS, APPLES AND RAISINS

1/2 cup almonds, chopped

2-1/2 to 3 cups water or chicken or vegetable broth (or water with 1 teaspoon bouillon)

1 cup uncooked rice (white or brown, not instant)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 onion, peeled and chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

2 teaspoons curry powder

1 bell pepper (any color), cored, seeded and chopped (optional)

1 or 2 apples, cored, seeded and chopped

1/2 cup raisins, golden raisins, dried cranberries or chopped dried apricots

In a skillet set over medium heat, toast the almonds, shaking the pan for about 6 minutes until fragrant. Set aside.

Bring the water (and bouillon) or stock to a boil. If using white rice, use the lesser amount; if using brown rice, use all 3 cups. Add the rice and cook until the liquid is absorbed: about 20 minutes for white rice, at least 30 minutes for brown rice. Fluff with a fork and set aside.

In a skillet, heat the vegetable oil. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, curry powder and bell pepper (if using) and cook about 5 minutes more. Add the apple, dried fruit and toasted almonds to the skillet and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add the rice, stir well and cook just until heated through.

Yield: 3 to 4 servings

Recipe from Jim Sadler, then of the U.S. Virgin Islands, circa 1977

Marialisa Calta is the author of "Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family" (Perigee, 2005). For more information, go to www.marialisacalta.com.

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