Now that spring has officially arrived, we can welcome the season. And there’s no more appropriate way to welcome it than with (ta-da!) spring rolls.

What, exactly, is a spring roll? How does it differ from an egg roll? And is it fried or fresh? There are, it appears, few definitive answers.

Spring rolls are, according to the “Food Lover’s Companion” by Sharon Tyler Herbst (Barrons, 2001), a “smaller, more delicate” version of egg rolls, and got their name because they are traditionally served at Chinese New Year in very early spring. At New Year’s, according to other sources, they are served as a symbol of prosperity because — thinly rolled and fried golden — they resemble gold bars. (OK, if you have a good imagination they resemble gold bars. If you don’t, they resemble thin egg rolls.) One newspaper account avers that in China, all such rolls (even fatter ones) are called “spring rolls,” and only came to be called “egg rolls” when Cantonese cooks in America began making them with an egg-based pastry wrapper instead of more traditional wrappers like rice paper and flour-and-water “skins.” But rolls are found in other Asian cuisines, including Vietnamese, Thai and Cambodian (although they are sometimes called “summer rolls” or “garden rolls”). Some are fried, some not. Like the season itself, then, spring rolls can take on many different aspects and can both confuse and delight.

To further muddy the waters, here is a recipe for an “Italian-Style Spring Roll,” or, in Italian, “Bombe di Verdure” (“vegetable bomb”). A new cookbook that lives up to its name, “Fantastico!” by Gino D’Acampo (Kyle Books, 2008), offers this tasty delight, which clearly makes no claim to “authenticity” in the Italian or Asian culinary traditions. It has the added advantage, for most home cooks, of being baked — not deep-fried. As a counterbalance, I offer a “fantastico” version of a fresh Vietnamese spring roll, my own favorite of the genre, developed by Asian-food authorities Naomi Duguid and Jeffrey Alford for the first cookbook published by EatingWell magazine back in 1991. Both recipes work as delicious appetizers served as a first course, or as “finger food” at a cocktail party.



ITALIAN-STYLE SPRING ROLLS

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and finely sliced

1 zucchini, finely sliced like matchsticks

1 carrot, peeled and finely sliced like matchsticks

1 leek, trimmed and finely sliced like matchsticks

5 ounces white (button) mushrooms, trimmed and sliced

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1/2 teaspoon crushed dry chilies or hot red-pepper flakes

salt

8 (14-by-9-inch sheets) phyllo pastry, thawed if frozen (see Cook’s note)

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

freshly ground black pepper

store-bought chili sauce, for serving

Cook’s note: Phyllo dough is also sold as filo dough, and is usually found in the pastry freezer at the supermarket. Thaw according to package directions. According to Herbst’s book, it is pronounced “FEE-lo.”

Heat the oil in a large skillet and fry all the vegetables, the garlic and the red-pepper flakes over high heat, uncovered, for 15 minutes, stirring continuously and adjusting the heat if the vegetables start burning or sticking. Season with salt. Once all the vegetables are golden and soft, remove using a slotted spoon and set aside to cool.

Preheat the oven to 350 F. Brush a sheet of phyllo with melted butter and fold it in half, buttered-sides together, to make a double-strength, 7-by-9-inch sheet. Trim to measure 6 inches by 6 inches. Repeat with remaining sheets. (Most commercial phyllo dough measures 14 by 9 inches; if yours is different, adjust these directions; you want to wind up with eight 6-inch squares.) Brush the squares with more melted butter and distribute the cooked vegetables evenly among them, spooning them diagonally across each square. Start to roll one corner of the phyllo toward the middle. When you reach the center, tuck in the sides to encase the filling, then continue to roll up.

Repeat with remaining squares.

Place the finished rolls on a greased baking sheet and sprinkle with black pepper.

Bake for 15 minutes or until browned and crispy. Serve immediately with sauce for dipping.

Yield: 8 rolls

Recipe from “Fantastico! Modern Italian Food” by Gino D’Acampo (Kyle Books, 2008)



VIETNAMESE SPRING ROLLS

For dipping sauce:

3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot red-pepper flakes

6 tablespoons fish sauce (found in Asian aisle of most supermarkets)

6 tablespoons water

3 to 4 tablespoons fresh lemon or lime juice

2 tablespoons sugar

a spoonful of grated carrot, for garnish (optional)

For the rolls:

2 cups bean sprouts

15 (6- to 8-inch) rice papers (see Cook’s note)

1 large head Boston, Bibb or leaf lettuce, leaves separated and trimmed

1/2 fresh pineapple, peeled, eyes removed, halved, cored and thinly sliced

2 tomatoes, stemmed and cored and thinly sliced

1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, coarsely chopped

Cook’s note: Rice papers are found in many supermarkets and specialty Asian markets. They can be tricky to work with, tearing easily when moistened, so supply yourself with extras to allow for mistakes. If you don’t want the bother, just use the lettuce leaves as a wrapper and fill them as you would the rice papers.

Make the sauce: In a blender or mini-food processor, combine garlic, red pepper, fish sauce, water, lemon or lime juice and sugar until quite smooth. This can be covered and refrigerated for up to three days. Before serving, place in individual bowls for dipping and sprinkle with carrot, if using.

Make the rolls: Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Blanch the bean sprouts by plunging them into the boiling water for 1 minute. Drain and refresh by running under cold water. Drain and set aside. Set out a bowl of warm water for moistening the rice papers. Assemble your other ingredients.

Moisten the rice papers in warm water for 10 to 20 seconds, or until softened. Place a lettuce leaf inside each softened rice paper. Fill with a bit of pineapple, some bean sprouts, tomato slices, cilantro and/or mint. Roll up the bundles as you would an egg roll; fold in two sides and then the middle flaps to make a neat package. As you work, check to see if the water grows cold and replace it with warm water as needed.

You can make these a few hours a head of time: Cover with slightly damp paper towels and plastic wrap and refrigerate; allow to come to room temperature before serving. Serve with dipping sauce.

Yield: 12 to 15 rolls with 3/4 cup sauce