IDIOT IN THE KITCHEN:
Bond’s shaken, not stirred way to go for cool, frothy cocktails


Published/Last Modified on Tuesday, July 1, 2008 3:07 PM MDT


James Bond has no problem shirking the establishment, even when it comes to his cocktails. The tuxedoed secret agent orders his martinis, “shaken, not stirred.”


Good choice, 007. The shaken cocktail is frosty and frothier than the stirred variety preferred by traditionalists.

Mixing a drink in a shaker is a step most home bartenders skip, but they shouldn’t. Shaking a drink isn’t just for show. It helps meld and chill the ingredients, and it adds just enough water to cut the sharpness of the alcohol.

“In general, Americans enjoy a cold drink, so a good hard shake adds to the enjoyment of the cocktail,” says New York restaurateur and bartender Michael Waterhouse.

So what are the basics? Start with the ice.

Cubed, not crushed, ice is essential for a good shake. Not only does the rhythmic cracking of cubed ice sound better, but crushed ice melts (and thereby waters down) too quickly.

Also, the desirable tiny chips of ice left floating in the drink are formed by cubes crashing against one another.

Most home bars have a cobbler shaker, which comes with a tight-fitting lid that has a built-in strainer. It’s the most basic shaker and the best bet for novices.

A more advanced amateur mixologist might want to try a shaker that is similar to the one the pros use, the Boston shaker. It has a metal canister and a glass tumbler that fit together. The big difference is the lack of a built-in strainer — an advantage when one seeks a more frothy drink.

As for technique, pay no attention to the athletic theatrics of movie bartenders. Shaking a drink should not be aerobic exercise. Really, it’s all in the wrists, no matter the shaker.

Hold the cobbler shaker with two hands, one securing the lid, about shoulder high. Then, using your wrists, shake back and forth for about 15 seconds, or until the shaker becomes too cold to hold and a fine frost forms on the canister. That’s it.

You pour the drink through the shaker’s strainer to prevent large chunks of ice from falling into the glass.

But a drink isn’t finished until you add the twist. I always thought a twist was just colorful garnish, but Waterhouse says it provides an important flavor element and there’s no point in cutting just a sliver of rind.

“Twists should always be cut fresh off the fruit because you want to get all the juice out of it,” Waterhouse says. “I like to call it the ‘big ugly twist.’”

Squeezing the twist over the drink and rubbing it on the rim releases oils from the rind, subtly flavoring the drink.

Waterhouse’s Raleigh Collins, a lemonade-like cocktail made dangerously good with tequila, is unbeatable on a summer day. It’s also a great excuse to practice your shaking technique.

This recipe calls for the Italian lemon liqueur limoncello. Most wine shops sell limoncello, but it’s also easy to make (so long as you plan about a week before you want the cocktail).

RALEIGH COLLINS

Start to finish: 5 minutes

Servings: 2

Ice cubes

4 ounces tequila blanco

2 ounces limoncello

2 ounce fresh lemon juice

2 ounces club soda

1 orange

Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add the tequila, limoncello and lemon juice. Shake vigorously for 15 to 20 seconds.

Fill 2 tall glasses with ice. Using the top of the cocktail shaker, strain the mixture into the glasses. Top each with club soda.

Cut two 1-by-2-inch strips of rind from the orange. Reserve the rest of the orange for another use.

One at a time, hold a strip of orange rind above each drink and twist and squeeze to release the oils. Rub the strip around the edge of the glass, then add to the drink.

Recipe from Michael Waterhouse, co-owner of New York’s Devin Tavern and Dylan Prime

LIMONCELLO

Start to finish: 1 week (10 minutes active)

Makes 1 liter

12 whole lemons

1 1/2 cups sugar

1-liter bottle vodka

Juice the lemons and reserve the juice for another purpose. Cut the squeezed lemons into quarters, then place them in a large pitcher with a lid (or one that can be easily covered with plastic wrap).

Add the sugar and mix well to help extract any remaining juice. Add the vodka (saving the empty bottle) and stir well.

Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. After a day, stir the mixture, cover and return to the refrigerator. Repeat daily for at least 4 days and up to a week, until all sugar is dissolved.

Use a mesh strainer to strain the mixture into a medium bowl, using a spoon to press the lemons to extract all of the liquid. Use a funnel and ladle to transfer the limoncello to the reserved vodka bottle. Cover and store in the freezer.

Limoncello will keep for up to 3 months in the refrigerator and indefinitely in the freezer.

Recipe from Michael Waterhouse, co-owner of New York’s Devin Tavern and Dylan Prime

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