It’s easy to make fun of Rachael Ray. She giggles a lot. She says “EVOO” instead of “extra-virgin olive oil” and “yum-o!” just to annoy us. She calls small children “itty bitties.” She gives her recipes cutesy names (Exhibit A: “That’s Shallota Flavor Spaghetti,” below). She is constantly awarding her creations props (“Delish!” “Serious yum-o!” “An absolute FAVE!”)

Sophisticated cooks and diners revile her. There are entire Web communities dedicated to dissing her. Of course, there’s the envy factor: How hard is it to dislike a woman who makes millions, has won a truckload of awards (including two Daytime Emmys), has built an empire (magazine, cookbooks, products), hangs with celebrities and never seems to age?

But, in the end, those of us who believe it’s socially, gastronomically and physically important to get families cooking and eating together have to tip our hats to Ray. She is America’s kitchen cheerleader, urging Average Joes and Josephines (and their offspring) to chop and stir, broil and bake. She encourages kids not only to eat their veggies but also to help prepare them.

Witness the new “Yum-O! The Family Cookbook” (Clarkson Potter, 2008). This book is praiseworthy for several reasons. First, Ray seems to have mostly given up the fantasy-based timing of her recipes. (Even her devotees will tell you that her famous “30-Minute Meals” can sometimes take well over an hour.) Second, she’s giving a big nod to health, pushing whole grains and vegetables. Third, she’s encouraging older kids to cook the entire dinner (yay!) and giving those “itty bitties” specific tasks, like peeling apples. Fourth, the proceeds of this book go to her charity, Yum-o! (www.yum-o.org), which, according to the Web site, “empowers kids and families to develop healthy relationships with food and cooking.” It’s a noble mission, Rachael. You’ve said a mouthful.

THAT’S SHALLOTA FLAVOR SPAGHETTI

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

10 shallots, halved, peeled and thinly sliced

salt and black pepper

1 pound whole-wheat spaghetti

a generous handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped

1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Heat the oil over medium-low heat in a deep skillet. Add garlic and shallots. Season with salt and pepper, then cook gently until the garlic and shallots are caramelized, about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to boil for the pasta; salt the water liberally, then add the spaghetti and cook according to package directions until done but still firm (“al dente”). Just before you drain the pasta, add three ladles of starchy pasta water (about 1-1/4 cups) to the garlic and shallots, and stir.

Drain pasta and add to the skillet. Add the parsley and cheese and more black pepper. Toss over medium heat for 1 to 2 minutes so the liquid can absorb into the pasta, and serve.

Yield: 4 servings

Recipe from “Yum-O! The Family Cookbook” by Rachael Ray (Clarkson Potter, 2008)

BBQ CHICKEN SLOPPY JOES WITH PICKLED-SLAW SALAD

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 pounds ground chicken

1 tablespoon grill seasoning, such as McCormick’s Montreal Chicken Seasoning

1 medium red onion, peeled and chopped

1 small red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and chopped

3 tablespoons red-wine vinegar

3 tablespoons dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 (14-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 tablespoon hot sauce

4 crusty rolls, split and toasted

1 cup dill pickles, chopped

For the slaw:

1/3 cup pickle juice (from the pickle jar)

1/4 cup honey

2 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil

4 cups packed, shredded-cabbage slaw-salad mix (3/4 pound)

salt and pepper

Make the sloppy Joes: Heat the oil in a large, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the ground chicken and use the back of a wooden spoon or spatula to break it up into crumbles, so that it can brown evenly. Stir in the grill seasoning. Once the chicken begins to brown, 3 to 4 minutes, add the onion and bell pepper and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, until the vegetables begin to soften.

In a bowl, combine the vinegar, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce, tomato sauce and hot sauce. Stir this sauce into the chicken. Reduce heat to simmer; let mixture bubble for another 5 minutes.

For the slaw: Combine the pickle juice with the honey and canola or vegetable oil. Toss cabbage with dressing and season the slaw with salt and pepper, to taste.

Using a large spoon or ice-cream scoop, pile the sloppy chicken onto toasted-bun bottoms, then top with chopped pickles and bun tops. Serve with slaw on the side.

Yield: 4 servings

Recipe from “Yum-O! The Family Cookbook” by Rachael Ray (Clarkson Potter, 2008)

MEATLOAF MUFFINS WITH BARBECUE SAUCE

vegetable oil or extra-virgin olive oil

1-1/2 pounds ground beef

1 small yellow onion, peeled and cut into quarters

1 small green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and cut into chunks

splash of milk

1 large egg

1 cup plain breadcrumbs

2 tablespoons grill seasoning, such as McCormick’s Montreal Steak Seasoning

1 cup smoky barbecue sauce

1/2 cup jarred tomato salsa

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

Preheat oven to 450 F. Brush a 6-cup muffin tin with oil.

Put ground beef into a big bowl.

Put onion and bell pepper into a food processor. Pulse to finely chop the onion and bell pepper. Add to the meat.

In a small bowl, whisk the milk and egg together and add to meat. Add breadcrumbs and grill seasoning.

In a small bowl, mix together the barbecue sauce, salsa and Worcestershire sauce. Pour half the sauce mixture into the bowl with the meatloaf mix. Mix the meatloaf together with your hands. (Wash your hands well after handling the raw meat.)

Use a large ice-cream scoop to put the meat into the muffin cups.

Top each “muffin” with a spoonful of reserved sauce. Bake about 15 minutes. Cut one muffin open to see whether it’s cooked through. (The meat should not be pink.) If not, bake a few minutes more and test again.

Yield: 6 servings

Recipe from “Cooking Rocks!” by Rachael Ray (Lake Isle Press, 2004)

PESTO, SPINACH AND BROCCOLI PIZZA

1 (10-ounce) box frozen chopped spinach

1 (10-ounce) box frozen chopped broccoli (10 ounces)

1 (12-inch) store-bought pizza crust, such as Boboli brand

1 cup store-bought pesto sauce

2-1/2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese or Italian four-cheese blend

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

Preheat oven to 375 F.

Defrost spinach in microwave, 5 minutes on high. Place spinach in a clean kitchen towel and wring the spinach dry; reserve in a small bowl. Repeat process with the broccoli, and add to spinach.

Place the pizza crust on a pizza pan or a cookie sheet, and spread basil pesto sauce over the crust. Top with spinach, broccoli and cheese. Sprinkle garlic on top, and put it in the oven. Bake until bubbly and lightly browned on top, 15 to 18 minutes. Slice and serve.

Yield: 8 slices

Recipe from “Cooking Rocks!” by Rachael Ray (Lake Isle Press, 2004)

 

Marialisa Calta is the author of “Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family” (Perigee, 2005). For more information, go to www.marialisacalta.com.