There’s something about the current economy and energy crunch that has put many of us in “homesteading” mode. People are taking “stay-cations” this summer, riding their bikes more, putting up clotheslines, and, in some communities, planting large vegetable gardens.

The problem with a large garden is dealing with the harvest. Today’s technologies allow you to freeze it or dry it, but don’t forget old-fashioned canning. Our foremothers had that down to a science, and one New England cookbook of the early 1900s said it was a “poor year” if fewer than 300 or 400 quarts of food — tomatoes, applesauce, beans, chutneys, jams, pickles, relishes, you name it — were not “put by” for the winter. It is a skill that has been lost in our desperate search for quick-and-easy recipes.

In the end, preserving your own harvest — once you count the cost of gas for the rototiller, seeds, fertilizer and energy (stovetop, freezer, food dehydrator) — may not actually save you money over buying the stuff at one of those humungous supermarkets, but you can’t beat it for quality control (you know exactly what goes into that jar or bag), a feeling of immense satisfaction and, if you do it right, great taste. If you don’t have a garden, ask a producer at your local farmer’s market whether you can buy a large quantity of fruits and vegetables. Discounts for half or whole bushels are often offered. That way, you know you are supporting a local farm, as well.

The novice’s best friend when it comes to preserving food is, hands down, “The Ball Blue Book Guide to Preserving” (Alltrista, 2004). It is available for $4.95 (plus shipping and handling) from www.freshpreserving.com or by calling (800) 240-3340. It offers detailed instructions, troubleshooting advice and 500 recipes. (Many of them are also available on the Web site.) Although these are the folks who make Ball brand Mason jars and Kerr brand jars, they give plenty of advice on freezing and drying foods.

The recipes here come from the folks at Ball and from a new book called “175 Best Jams, Jellies, Marmalades & Other Soft Spreads” by Linda J. Amendt (Robert Rose, 2008). Because canning takes time, the recipes here have been chosen for their “wow” factor: the tequila in the Peacharita Jam from Amendt’s book, for example, and the antipasto-in-a-jar from Ball. Both would make welcome gifts, too.

IMPORTANT: Because of space limitations, it is not possible to give comprehensive instructions for safe canning methods. And because spoiled food can mean waste, illness or worse, you must bone up on up-to-date canning methods before attempting any of these recipes. In addition to the Web site and books mentioned here, there are many other reputable information sources. Search online, or inquire at your library or local extension service. Make sure to follow all instructions on sterilizing and processing (water bath or pressure canner) to the letter and follow recipes closely. Use the size jars indicated, as large jars might require more processing (boiling) time.

Cook’s note: The recipes below all call for you to “remove air bubbles.” Do this by running a nonmetal spatula around the inside of the jar. Likewise, instructions to “check the seal” mean that you should unscrew the bands and lift each jar by the lid. The seal should hold. If it does not, cover and refrigerate the mixture and use it within a few weeks. To peel peaches and tomatoes, carve an X in their skin opposite the stem end, plunge them into boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds, run under cold water and slip off the skins.

PEACHARITA JAM

3 cups pitted, peeled peaches (see Cook’s note)

2/3 cup freshly squeezed lime juice

1/2 cup tequila

1/4 cup Triple Sec

6 cups sugar

1/2 teaspoon unsalted butter (optional)

1 (3-ounce) pouch liquid pectin (sold in supermarkets)

Prepare canning jars, lids and bands according to the instructions you have found from a reputable canning source. Bring water in a water-bath canner to a boil.

In an 8-quart nonreactive (preferably stainless steel) pot, combine the peaches, lime juice, tequila and Triple Sec. Gradually stir in sugar and butter (if using). Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly until the sugar is completely dissolved.

Increase heat to medium-high, and bring to a full rolling boil while stirring constantly. Stir in the pectin. Return to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly, and boil for 1 minute.

Remove pot from heat, and skim off any foam. Let jam cool for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Ladle hot jam into hot jars, leaving 1/4-inch head space. Remove air bubbles. Wipe the jar rims and threads with a clean, damp paper towel. Center hot lids on jars, and screw on bands until fingertip tight.

Place jars in the boiling-water bath, making sure that they are covered by at least 1 inch of water. Cover and bring to a gentle boil. Boil for 10 minutes.

Remove from canner, and place on a wire rack or cloth towel. Let cool for 24 hours, then check seals. Wash, dry and label the jars, and store in a cool, dry place.

Yield: about 7 (8-ounce) jars or 14 (4-ounce) jars

Recipe from “175 Best Jams, Jellies, Marmalades & Other Soft Spreads” by Linda J. Amendt (Robert Rose, 2008)

ANTIPASTO RELISH

7 whole black peppercorns

4 bay leaves

1-3/4 cups white vinegar

1 cup lightly packed brown sugar

2 tablespoons salt

4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

1 tablespoon dried oregano

6 cups coarsely chopped cored, peeled tomatoes (about 6 medium)

3 bell peppers (1 each green, red and yellow), seeded and chopped

2 carrots, peeled and diced

1 stalk celery, diced

1 large onion, peeled and coarsely chopped

Tie the peppercorns and bay leaves in a square of cheesecloth, creating a spice bag.

In an 8-quart nonreactive (preferably stainless steel) pot, combine the vinegar, brown sugar, salt, garlic, oregano and spice bag. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Stir in tomatoes, peppers, carrots, celery and onion. Reduce heat, and boil gently, stirring frequently, for 1 hour, until thickened to the consistency of a thin commercial relish. Discard spice bag.

While the mixture is cooking, prepare canning jars, lids and bands according to the instructions you have found from a reputable canning source. Bring water in a water-bath canner to a boil.

Ladle hot relish into hot jars, leaving 1/2-inch headspace. Remove air bubbles. Wipe the jar rims and threads with a clean, damp paper towel. Center hot lids on jars and screw on bands until fingertip tight.

Place jars in the boiling-water bath, making sure that they are covered by at least 1 inch of water. Cover and bring to a gentle boil. Process for 10 minutes.

Remove from canner, and place on a wire rack or cloth towel. Let cool for 24 hours, then check seals. Wash, dry and label the jars and store in a cool, dry place.

Yield: Makes about 6 (8-ounce) jars

Recipe from www.freshpreserving.com

 

Marialisa Calta is the author of “Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family” (Perigee, 2005). For more information, go to www.marialisacalta.com.