Some folks find autumn a time of renewal: the crispness in the air, the back-to-school energy. But others find fall a sad season: a goodbye to green leaves, warm weather and snow-free roads. Not to mention deep-fried Twinkies.
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“People go to the fair to eat,” says Marla Calico, of the International Association of Fairs and Expositions in Springfield, Mo. “And, by and large, they are not looking for health food.” Corn dogs, fried dough and batter-dipped onions are perennial favorites. But the last few years, says Calico, has seen the introduction of deep-fried you-name-it: pickles, macaroni and cheese, candy bars, guacamole, cookie dough, White Castle Sliders, Spam, Twinkies, cheese-filled sausages, meatballs, peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwiches, frogs’ legs and even an item billed as Deep-Fried Coca Cola (Coke-flavored dough, deep-fried and drizzled with Coke fountain syrup).
It is undoubtedly wise to limit your intake of such “cuisine” to your once-a-year visit to the fair, about two-thirds of which end by mid-September, according to Calico. But should you crave a deep-fried treat, here are ways to impress your guests while assuaging your craving. The most unlikely of the recipes comes from “Decadent Desserts: Recipes from Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte,” written by the Countess Cristina de Vogue (Flammarion, 2008). Yes, the countess fries with the best of ‘em: Here, for your delectation, is the deep-fried croissant. She calls it “Candied Croissant.” At the fair, it would undoubtedly be billed as Croissant-on-a-Stick.
The delectable Ricotta Fritters and Beer-Battered Apples (think of them as “dessert tempura”) come from the new “Dessert Express” by Lauren Chattman (Taunton Press, 2008). All these recipes are FAIRly quick, FAIRly easy and fine stand-ins for your favorite fair fare.
Frying tips:
— Assemble equipment: You will need a deep, 10-inch, cast-iron skillet or Dutch oven, oven mitts, tongs and/or slotted spoon. A candy/fry thermometer is really handy, but if you don’t have one, read on for information on how to proceed.
— Assemble ingredients: Use a neutral oil, such as canola. About 1-1/2 to 2 cups should fill a 10-inch pan to a depth of 2 inches.
— Heat the oil: It will be hot enough when the thermometer reads 325 F to 350 F. If you don’t have a thermometer, check the surface of the oil; when it’s wavy, the oil is ready. Test with a bit of the food; it should sizzle immediately. Don’t be afraid to adjust the temperature as you cook.
— Fry the food: Work in batches; crowding the pan lowers the oil temperature. Frying times in recipes are approximate and will vary with the heat of your oil.
— Clean up: Let the oil cool, strain it, and pour it into a covered container for reuse. When it starts to darken and takes on a strong odor, throw it out.
CANDIED CROISSANTS
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons superfine sugar
2 pinches vanilla powder, or about 1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
about 2 cups sunflower oil, canola oil or other vegetable oil
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
6 croissants
confectioners’ sugar, for dusting (optional)
vanilla custard or ice cream for serving (optional)
Preheat the oven to 200 F. Line a baking sheet with paper towels, and place in the oven.
In a saucepan, bring the milk and sugar just to a boil. Remove from heat, stir in vanilla, and allow to cool.
Meanwhile, pour oil into your pan to a depth of 2 inches. Heat until the surface is wavy and a candy/fry thermometer reads about 350 F. Place the flour into a shallow bowl.
Working in batches, break the croissants in half, and dip each half in the cooled milk. Lift with a slotted spoon, letting any excess milk drain back into the pan. Roll in flour to coat lightly, and fry until golden brown, turning once, 4 to 6 minutes total. Drain on the prepared platter, and let sit in the oven while you finish frying. Discard unused flour.
Dust with confectioners’ sugar, if desired, or serve warm with custard or ice cream.
Yield: 12 croissant halves
Recipe from “Decadent Desserts: Recipes from Chateau Vaux-le-Vicomte” by the Countess Cristina de Vogue (Flammarion, 2008)
RICOTTA FRITTERS
about 2 cups canola or other vegetable oil
1 large egg
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 cup whole-milk ricotta
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/3 cup all-purpose flour, preferably unbleached
pinch of salt
1/2 cup pure maple syrup (see Cook’s note)
confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Cook’s note: You can substitute honey or chocolate syrup for the maple syrup, or omit altogether.
Preheat the oven to 200 F. Line a baking sheet with paper towels, and place in the oven.
Pour oil into your pan to a depth of 2 inches. Heat until the surface is wavy and a candy/fry thermometer reads about 350 F.
While the oil is heating, whisk the egg, sugar, ricotta and vanilla in a medium bowl. Whisk in the flour and salt.
Carefully drop 6 tablespoons of batter into the hot oil to make 6 individual fritters. Fry, turning once, until the fritters are golden brown on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes total. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the fritters to the prepared baking sheet, and keep warm in the oven. Repeat with remaining batter.
Drizzle 2 tablespoons maple syrup on each of four dessert plates. Dust the fritters heavily with confectioners’ sugar, arrange three on each plate on top of the syrup, and serve immediately.
Yield: 12 fritters, or 4 servings
Recipe from “Dessert Express: 100 Sweet Treats You Can Make in 30 Minutes or Less” by Lauren Chattman (Taunton Press, 2008).
BEER-BATTERED FRIED APPLES
about 2 cups canola or other vegetable oil
1/2 cup all-purpose flour, preferably unbleached
2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
pinch of salt
1/2 cup lager-style beer, chilled
1 large apple, peeled and cored, and cut into 16 (1/4-inch) slices
confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Line a baking sheet with paper towels, and set aside.
Pour oil into your pan to a depth of 2 inches. Heat until the surface is wavy and a candy/fry thermometer reads about 350 F.
Whisk the flour, sugar, cinnamon, salt and beer in a medium bowl.
Put eight of the apple slices into the bowl, and toss to coat with the batter. Lift them with a slotted spoon, one at a time, letting any excess batter drip back into the bowl, and then place them in the hot oil.
Fry the slices, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes total. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the fried slices to the prepared baking sheet to drain. Repeat with the remaining slices. Let rest a minute or two, then dust heavily with confectioners’ sugar and serve immediately.
Yield: about 16 slices, or 4 servings
Recipe from “Dessert Express: 100 Sweet Treats You Can Make in 30 Minutes or Less” by Lauren Chattman (Taunton Press, 2008).
Marialisa Calta is the author of “Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family” (Perigee, 2005). For more information, go to www.marialisacalta.com.
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