When European explorers first came to the New World, historians tell us, they were thrilled to find "melons" growing everywhere. The Algonquins called these melons "astook asquash," which meant "eaten green." As we now know, these were not melons at all, but squash, in all their glorious variety.

Summer squash -- the ubiquitous zucchini, the yellow crookneck and the pattypan among them -- have their season, usually in abundance. But it is autumn when the vegetables known as "winter squash" -- those with a tougher, more fibrous shell and generally more vibrantly colored and meatier flesh their estival counterparts -- come into their own. They include Hubbard, acorn, butternut, kabocha, delicata and spaghetti squash, as well as pumpkins. Like root vegetables, winter squash are affordable and keep well, and thus give folks who live in northern climates a chance to eat local produce when snow has covered the garden.

Like all plant products, squash have no cholesterol. They are also low in sodium, and a 1-cup serving of most winter squash has about 2 grams of protein. Squash are considered to be a good source of vitamin E, niacin, vitamin B6, folate, calcium and magnesium, and an even better source of vitamin A, vitamin C, potassium and manganese.

But the best thing about winter squash is their flavor -- sweet, nutty and rich -- and their versatility in the kitchen. They can be roasted, steamed, boiled, broiled, braised, grilled and fried; served straight up or seasoned or stuffed. They can make an appearance at all courses of your dinner, from soups to desserts.

The classic winter squash preparation, of course, is to slice and bake it and serve it as a savory dish (just salt and pepper will do) or sweet (butter, cinnamon, and brown sugar or maple syrup). But there are many other preparations that lend themselves to casual meals or company suppers.

The autumn cookbook harvest reaped a proverbial cornucopia of scrumptious squash recipes; if you are thinking of adding a new dish to your Thanksgiving menu, any one of these recipes is a candidate. They come from the mouth-watering "Osteria" by Rick Tramanto (Broadway Books, 2008), from the lively "Simple Italian Snacks" by Jason Denton and Kathryn Kellinger (William Morrow, 2008), and from the encyclopedic "The Bon App‚tit Fast Easy Fresh Cookbook" by Barbara Fairchild (Wiley, 2008).

CHARRED SQUASH WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR AND PARMIGIAN0-REGGIANO

1-1/2 pounds winter squash, such as delicata, butternut, acorn or kabocha

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup olive oil

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 fresh sage leaves

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

6 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1/2 to 1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Preheat the oven to 450 F.

Split the squash in half but do not peel them. Using a spoon, scoop out the seeds and discard. Using a sharp knife, cut the squash into slices between 1/4- and 1/2-inch thick.

Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Put the olive oil in the pan. Arrange the squash in the pan and then add 1 tablespoon of the butter. Top with sage and rosemary and cook over high heat for 2 minutes, or until the butter foams and begins to brown. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 10 to 12 minutes. Do not turn the squash. When the squash is fork tender and the underside is darkly caramelized but not burned, remove from the oven.

Remove the squash to a serving platter and set aside. Leave the herbs in the pan. Return the pan to the stovetop, place over medium-high heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Let it foam and brown slightly. Add the vinegar and stir with a wooden spoon, scraping up any browned bits. Spoon all of this sauce over the squash. Use a vegetable peeler to shave the cheese over the squash and serve warm.

Yield: 4 servings

Recipe from "Osteria" by Rick Tramonto, with Mary Goodbody (Broadway Books, 2008)

 WARM SALAD OF BUTTERNUT SQUASH

3 tablespoons olive oil

2-1/2 tablespoons honey

3 cups diced butternut or other winter squash (1/2-inch dice)

8 caperberries (see Cook's note)

1/2 head radicchio, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch strips

1/2 cup dried currants, raisins or chopped pitted prunes

1 head escarole, stem end removed, dark outer tips of the leaves trimmed

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

6 slices prosciutto (Italian ham), cut into 1-1/2-inch-long ribbons

sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Cook's note: Caperberries are the fruit that forms if capers are left on the plant. They resemble olives in size and shape, and are often sold in brine, in glass jars in the condiment section of the supermarket. IF you cannot find them, leave them out; substituting capers will add too much acid to the dish.

Combine the olive oil and honey in a large skillet. Add the squash and toss to coat.

Place the skillet over medium-high heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the squash is tender and lightly browned on the edges, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the caperberries (see Cook's note), radicchio and currants (or raisins or prunes) and stir to combine. Cook a minute or more to slightly wilt the radicchio. Remove from the heat.

Just before serving, add the escarole and the sherry vinegar. Toss well and divide among 4 serving plates. Top each serving with a few ribbons of prosciutto, a sprinkling of salt and several grindings of pepper.

Yield: 4 servings

Recipe from "Simple Italian Snacks" by Jason Benton and Kathryn Kellinger (William Morrow, 2008)

SPICED WINTER SQUASH WITH FENNEL

1-1/2 pounds butternut squash

1 fennel bulb

1 large onion

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

salt and pepper, to taste

Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and preheat to 450 F.

Halve the squash lengthwise, scoop out and discard the seeds, and peel the squash. Then halve each piece crosswise, and cut into 3/4-inch wide wedges.

Trim the celery-like fronds from the fennel and discard them. Remove and discard tough and discolored outer leaves from the bulb. Halve the bulb and cut into 1-inch-wide wedges.

Peel the onion and slice lengthwise into 1/2-inch-wide wedges.

Combine the squash, fennel and onion on a heavy, large-rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with oil and toss to coat. Mix all of the spices in a small bowl to blend. Sprinkle the spice mixture over the vegetables and toss to coat. Sprinkle with salt and a generous amount of pepper. Roast until vegetables are tender and browned, turning once, about 45 minutes. Transfer to a shallow dish and serve.

Yield: 4 servings

Recipe from "The Bon Appetit Fast Easy Fresh Cookbook" by Barbara Fairchild (Wiley, 2008)

Marialisa Calta is the author of "Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family" (Perigee, 2005). For more information, go to www.marialisacalta.com.