Soup, nice and HOT

By Marialisa Calta
Published/Last Modified on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 2:18 PM MST


“Of the various categories of dish which may be eaten, soup can certainly be counted among the most basic,” writes Alan Davidson in the “Oxford Companion to Food” (Oxford University Press, 1999). Basic it may be, but that doesn’t mean soup has to be boring or bland.


In fact, when icy winter winds howl outside, there is nothing like a bowl of soup that packs a punch. Ingredients like chili peppers and curry make for a soup with some real “heat.”

If you are in the habit of supping soup that comes from a can, the idea of making it from scratch may seem daunting. Not so. With minimal effort, you can obtain maximum flavor. The “minimal effort” part is especially true if you take the almost-from-scratch approach and omit the step of making your own stock.

The new “300 Sensational Soups” by Carla Snyder and Meredith Deeds (Robert Rose, 2008) will get you almost through an entire year of supping. Many of the recipes are filling and comforting, but others are for the kind of “hot” soup that jazzes your palate in the frigid depths of winter. If you want to make your own stock, this book has easy, straightforward recipes for that, as well.

Incidentally, both “soup” and “sup” — as well as “supper” — come from the same “prehistoric German root,” according to Davidson, and produced — in Italian, German and Spanish, respectively — the words zuppa, suppe and sopa. And they are all also related to “sop,” which is the word used to describe a piece of bread with liquid poured on it. (Think of the classic French Onion Soup.)

Whether you sip, sup or sop, it’s nice to dine on a bowl of really “hot” soup.

Cook’s note: Chipotle chilies are surprisingly fiery smoked jalapenos, often canned in a vinegary tomato sauce (adobo) and available in the Mexican aisle of most supermarkets. Freeze unused chipotles by dropping by spoonfuls onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Freeze until solid, and then transfer to freezer bags.

EASY CHIPOTLE CHICKEN SOUP

For tortilla strips (for topping)

canola or other vegetable oil, for frying

6 (6-inch) corn tortillas, cut into thin strips (aim for matchstick-thin)

salt

For the soup:

6 cups chicken stock

4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

1 or 2 chipotle chili peppers in adobo sauce (see note, above), minced

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 (14- to 19-ounce) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed

3 cups shredded cooked chicken

salt to taste

1 ripe avocado

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 lime, cut into wedges

Make the tortilla strips: Line a platter with paper towels, and set it aside. In a saucepan, heat about 3/4 inch of oil over medium-high heat until it registers 350 F on a fry thermometer, or until the top looks wavy. Working in batches, add about 1/4 of the tortilla strips, and fry until golden, 35 to 45 seconds. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, remove the tortilla strips, and drain on the prepared platter. Immediately season to taste with salt. Repeat with remaining strips, adjusting the heat as needed. Allow to cool, and use within 3 hours.

Make the soup: In a large pot, bring the chicken stock, garlic, chipotle(s) and pepper to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat, and simmer for 15 minutes to blend the flavors. Add the chickpeas, chicken and salt to taste.

Meanwhile, peel and dice the avocado.

Ladle the soup into heated bowls, and garnish with the avocado, cilantro and tortilla strips. Set a lime wedge on the side of the bowl, and invite diners to squeeze it over the soup.

Yield: 6 servings

Recipe from “300 Sensational Soups” by Carla Snyder and Meredith Deeds (Robert Rose, 2008)

CURRIED INDIAN DAL SOUP

1 stick cinnamon, about 1 inch long

2 whole cloves

1/2 teaspoon cardamom seeds

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1-1/4 cups dried yellow lentils, rinsed

6 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1/2 cup chopped onion

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh peeled gingerroot

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the cinnamon stick, cloves, cardamom, cumin and coriander, shaking the pan or stirring constantly until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Be careful not to let them burn. Remove from the heat, and allow to cool. Grind to a fine powder in a spice mill, mini food processor, clean coffee grinder or with a mortar and pestle.

In a large pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add ground spices, salt and turmeric, and saute until toasted and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add lentils and stock; bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer until lentils are tender, about 45 minutes. Using a potato masher, mash some of the lentils to thicken the soup. Thin with a little water, if needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

In a skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Add onion, and saute until starting to brown, about 8 minutes. Add garlic, ginger and cayenne, reduce heat to medium low, and saute until garlic and ginger are softened, about 3 minutes.

Ladle soup into heated bowls, and top with onion mixture. Sprinkle with cilantro and lemon juice.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Recipe from “300 Sensational Soups” by Carla Snyder and Meredith Deeds (Robert Rose, 2008)

 SPICY SWEET-POTATO CHOWDER

4 slices bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped

2 poblano chili peppers, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice

2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

2 chipotle chili peppers in adobo sauce, minced (see Cook’s note, above)

5 cups chicken stock

1 cup heavy (whipping) cream

1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

Line a plate with paper towels. Set aside.

In a large pot, saute bacon over medium heat until crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon, and drain on the prepared plate. Set aside.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat. Add onion and poblano chilies, and saute until softened, about 6 minutes. Add sweet potatoes, chipotle chilies and stock, and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer until sweet potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in cream, brown sugar, salt and lime juice; reheat over medium heat until steaming, stirring often. Do not let boil.

Ladle into heated bowls, and garnish with the bacon.

Yield: 6 servings

Recipe from “300 Sensational Soups” by Carla Snyder and Meredith Deeds (Robert Rose, 2008)

 

Marialisa Calta is the author of “Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family” (Perigee, 2005). For more information, go to www.marialisacalta.com.

 

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