Get your
baking face on

By Marialisa Calta
Published/Last Modified on Tuesday, February 17, 2009 3:54 PM MST


Of the many ways the food world can be divided — vegans and omnivores; garlic-philes and garlic-phobes; gourmands and junk-food junkies — the most profound may be this: cooks and bakers.


Cooks like to fiddle: They add, subtract or substitute ingredients; thicken or thin sauces; and experiment with seasonings. Bakers, on the other hand, are precise, honoring the science inherent in the process with near-exact measurements of ingredients, time and temperature. Cooks, by and large, don’t worry about how a dish looks; a sprinkling of parsley or a spoonful of gravy will usually cover all bases. Bakers fuss over appearances, adding glazes, frostings, fillings, creams, decorative toppings and garnishes.

There are some people, of course, who can cook and bake with ease. But those of us who think of ourselves as cooks are grateful for any help we can get, like the two new books from Wiley written with the neophyte baker in mind. One is the Betty Crocker “Baking Basics,” a simple, straightforward how-to volume replete with photos and troubleshooting advice. The other is “Baking, Unplugged” by Nicole Rees, a pastry chef who, in refuting the claim that “bakers are born, not made” says encouragingly: “Anyone can walk into the kitchen and bake something perfectly lovely without being genetically gifted or classically trained.” Her book stresses the use of simple equipment and simple techniques. No stand mixer or food processor required.

If you are already an accomplished baker, you probably don’t need either volume. But if you are still learning, or a bit insecure, either would serve as a welcome guide.

The recipes below are simple and straightforward but special enough to serve on an occasion. The finished products look gorgeous all by themselves. If you still think of yourself as a cook, not a baker, just remember to hold the parsley.

GOLDEN POUND CAKE

baking spray with flour (e.g., Baker’s Joy) to grease the pan

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

2-3/4 cups sugar

1-1/4 cups butter or margarine, at room temperature (see Cook’s note)

1 teaspoon vanilla or almond extract

5 large eggs

1 cup evaporated or regular milk

For the glaze:

3/4 cup semisweet chocolate chips

3 tablespoons butter or margarine (see Cook’s note)

3 tablespoons light corn syrup

2 to 3 teaspoons hot water

Cook’s note: Real butter will give a standout flavor. Use it, not margarine, if at all possible.

Preheat the oven to 325 F. Spray a 12-cup fluted tube-cake pan or a 10-by-4-inch angel-food tube-cake pan with the baking spray.

In a medium bowl, mix the flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.

In a large bowl, beat the sugar, butter (or margarine), vanilla (or almond) extract and eggs with an electric mixer set on low speed for 30 seconds, stopping frequently to scrape batter from the side and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Increase speed to high, and beat for 5 minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape the bowl. Decrease speed to low again, and beat in half of the flour mixture just until mixed, then beat in half of the milk. Repeat. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, turning the pan a couple of times to evenly distribute the batter. Use a rubber spatula to scrape the batter from the bowl, spread batter evenly in the pan and smooth the top of the batter.

Bake 1 hour and 25 minutes to 1 hour and 35 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted halfway between the side and center of the pan comes out clean.

Cool the cake on a wire cooling rack for 20 minutes. Remove the cake from the pan by placing a cooling rack upside down on the pan. Hold the rack and pan with potholders, and turn the rack and pan over together. Gently remove the pan, leaving the cake on the cooling rack. Cool completely about 2 hours.

Make the glaze: In a 1-quart saucepan, heat the chocolate chips, butter and corn syrup over low heat, stirring frequently, until the chips are melted. Cool about 10 minutes. Stir in the hot water, 1 teaspoon at a time, until the mixture has reached the consistency of thick syrup.

Place the cake on a serving platter, and spoon the glaze from the tip of a spoon over the top of the cake, allowing some glaze to drizzle down the sides.

Yield: 16 servings

Recipe from “Betty Crocker Baking Basics: Recipes and Tips to Bake with Confidence” (Wiley, 2009)

APPLE TURNOVERS

For the turnovers:

5 cups chopped apples (about 5 apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1-1/2-inch pieces)

1/2 cup sugar

3 tablespoons water, plus more for sealing turnovers

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

4 whole cloves

1 vanilla bean

1 (17.3-ounce) box (2 sheets) frozen puff pastry, thawed according to package instructions

For the glaze:

1 egg yolk

1 tablespoon water

sugar, for sprinkling

In a large skillet, combine the apples, sugar, 3 tablespoons water, lemon zest, cinnamon and cloves. Using a small, sharp knife, cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise. Wrap half the bean tightly in plastic wrap, and save for another use. With the tip of the knife, scrape the seeds out of the remaining half of the pod into the apple mixture. Add the pod to the skillet. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the apples just soften but still retain their shape and most of the liquid has evaporated. Cool completely. Remove and discard the vanilla bean pod and the cloves.

Preheat the oven to 400 F. Line two baking sheets with baking parchment, and set aside.

On a lightly floured surface, roll one sheet of the puff pastry to form a 12-inch square. Cut this square into four 6-inch squares. Repeat with the remaining sheet of puff pastry. Place 1/2 cup of the apple filling just off-center in one pastry square. Using a pastry brush, brush the edges with water; fold the puff pastry over the filling to form a triangle and, using the tines of a fork, lightly press around the edges of the turnover to seal. Repeat with remaining filling and pastry squares. Place the turnovers on the baking sheets, spacing at least 2 inches apart.

Make the glaze: Beat the egg yolk and water together in a small cup. Use a pastry brush to brush the tops of the turnover with the egg mixture, then sprinkle with sugar. Use a small, sharp knife to make a small cut in the top of each turnover, to allow steam to escape.

Bake 24 to 25 minutes, or until puffed and very well browned. Cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or cold.

Yield: 8 turnovers

Recipe from “Baking, Unplugged” by Nicole Rees (Wiley, 2009)

 

Marialisa Calta is the author of “Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family” (Perigee, 2005). For more information, go to www.marialisacalta.com.

 

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