There are folks out there who will shell out the big bucks for, say, American Kobe beef, and grind it at home, adding only hand-harvested sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. They will form the meat into patties and grill them over aged apple wood or hickory. And then they will serve them with ... French fries or onion rings from a frozen package.
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The new book “Burger Bar” by Hubert Keller (Wiley, 2009) is out just in time for the summer grilling season and may be the answer for those still searching for the ultimate burger. Keller is the owner of a trio of upscale Burger Bar restaurants in Las Vegas, St. Louis and San Francisco. His book offers recipes for making everything from a basic burger to a burger stuffed with braised short ribs and one topped with a wine reduction and black truffles. He also includes many variations on veggie burgers and on “burgers from the sea” — made with tuna and salmon and shrimp. He also gives a recipe for very basic, extremely delicious onion rings, coated in a beer batter before they are fried.
Keller includes a recipe for “Perfect French Fries” using the classic French method of frying them twice, with a resting period between frying. His recipe is very similar to my favorite, from James Villas’ “French Country Kitchen” (Bantam, 1992). Villas’ recipe is a bit simpler (for Keller’s, you must start two days in advance) and is reprinted here because I’ve had such success with it. The coleslaw comes from “River Run,” a cookbook I helped write with Chef Jimmy Kennedy and Maya Kennedy of Plainfield, Vt. (HarperCollins, 2001). I have never made this simple slaw without being asked for the recipe.
Some tips on frying:
— Use a deep-fry thermometer. Keep your eye on the temperature as you fry, adjusting the heat up or down as necessary.
— Use a slotted spoon or tongs to gently transfer food into and out of the hot oil. Wear oven mitts while you work.
— Don’t crowd the pan; crowding lowers oil temperature.
— You can strain and reuse oil up to a point; to discard it, let it cool, return to original container, cap and discard.
ALSACE BEER-BATTERED ONION RINGS
1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dredging
1-1/2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon salt, plus more for seasoning (preferably sea salt)
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 (12-ounce) bottle beer, preferably amber beer
2 large eggs, separated
6 to 8 cups vegetable or sunflower oil for deep frying
3 large (8 to 10 ounces each) yellow onions, peeled and sliced crosswise about 1/4-inch thick, and separated into rings
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, paprika, salt and pepper until evenly mixed. In another bowl, briskly whisk the beer and egg yolks until well blended. Whisk the beer mixture into the flour mixture until smooth. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or as long as overnight. Cover and refrigerate the egg whites.
When ready to cook, fill a deep heavy pot or deep fryer at least one-third full of oil and heat until it registers 360 F on a frying thermometer. Preheat the oven to 200 F, and line a platter or cookie sheet with paper towels or a brown paper bag.
While the oil is heating, beat the egg whites with an electric or hand mixer in a very clean bowl (any grease will keep them from whipping), until they form soft peaks. Fold the whites into the beer batter.
Spoon some flour into a shallow bowl, and dredge the onions in flour and shake off any excess. Dip the onion rings into the batter, and, when the oil has reached proper temperature, gently drop the coated rings into the oil, a few at a time. Fry, turning occasionally, until golden brown and crisp, about 3 minutes.
Transfer the fried rings to the prepared platter, and season with salt while still hot. Keep in oven until all onion rings are cooked. Serve immediately.
Yield: 6 servings
Recipe from “Burger Bar” by Hubert Keller (Wiley, 2009)
JAMES VILLAS’ PERFECT FRENCH FRIES
8 large Idaho potatoes
peanut oil, sunflower oil or other oil for deep-frying
coarse sea salt
Pour very cold water into a large bowl. Line a platter with paper towels.
Peel the potatoes, cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch sticks, and, as you work, drop the sticks into the cold water.
In a deep fryer or heavy saucepan, heat about 1-1/2-inches of oil to 325 F. Drain the potatoes, and pat them dry. When the oil is up to temperature, add the potatoes in batches and remove just when they begin to turn color. While they are frying, stir them gently so they cook evenly. Remove from oil, drain on the prepared platter, and let stand until ready to serve. Do not discard the oil.
When ready to serve (the potatoes should have returned to room temperature), heat the oil to 375 F. Return the potatoes to the oil in batches, and fry until puffy and nicely browned, watching constantly so they don’t burn. Drain on paper towels, sprinkle with salt to taste, and serve immediately.
Yield: 8 servings
Recipe from “French Country Kitchen” by James Villas (Bantam, 1992)
MAYA KENNEDY’S PERFECT SLAW
For dressing:
1/4 cup red-wine vinegar
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1-1/2 teaspoons prepared Dijon mustard
1/2 cup canola or other vegetable oil
1-1/2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
For slaw:
1/2 head red cabbage
1/2 head white cabbage
1 red bell pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
1/2 medium red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1 large carrot, grated, for color (optional)
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley
In a medium bowl, whisk together the dressing ingredients. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Remove the tough outer leaves of the both heads of cabbage, and core them. Shred the remainder of the cabbage in a food processor or with a sharp knife.
In a large salad bowl, toss the slaw ingredients together. Right before serving, toss slaw with dressing.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
Recipe from “River Run” by Jimmy Kennedy, Maya Kennedy and Marialisa Calta (HarperCollins, 2001)
Marialisa Calta is the author of “Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family” (Perigee, 2005). For more information, go to www.marialisacalta.com.
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