It has been more than a century since nutrition crusaders such as John Harvey Kellogg (yes, the inventor of cornflakes) began espousing the health benefits of a vegetarian diet. Yet many people still look askance at meat-free eating. When it comes to veganism — which excludes all animal products, including eggs, milk, cheese and honey — lots of people roll their eyes.

That’s a nonsensical response, because many of the meals we eat routinely, like breakfast (eggs and toast, cereal and milk, pancakes and waffles), are often vegetarian. And many may be vegan as well — think of a salad, a peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich or spaghetti with tomato sauce. Most of us are occasional vegetarians and, as the title of a new book suggests, “accidental vegans.”

Devra Gartenstein, the author of “The Accidental Vegan” (Celestial Arts, 2009), capitalizes on this fact, encouraging people to embrace not a complete vegan diet but a sampling of vegan dishes. A self-described omnivore who runs a vegetarian restaurant in Seattle, Wash., Gartenstein began eating vegan in an effort to lower her cholesterol. Environmental, moral or spiritual concerns are also motivators for adopting a less meaty diet. “I’m wary of absolutes and simple answers,” Gartenstein says. “Eating well is an ongoing quest, and I want to approach it with an open mind and a sense of humor.”

Wise words. Vegan recipes are all around, so wake up and smell the (organic, shade-grown, fair-trade) coffee. Sometimes it’s a matter of just leaving the cheese out of a dish you already cook. Sometimes it requires seeking new recipes. Those here come from Gartenstein’s book and from “The Vegan Cook’s Bible” (Robert Rose, 2009), written by another “accidental” vegan, Pat Crocker. Crocker describes her diet as “flexitarian.” By any measure, it’s a smart way to eat.

PAD THAI

1 pound wide rice noodles

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 tablespoon tamarind concentrate (see Cook’s note)

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon raw sugar

4 ounces extra-firm or firm tofu, cut into strips

2 carrots, peeled and grated

2 cups shredded red cabbage

1 cup bean sprouts

3 scallions, trimmed and chopped

1/2 cup chopped roasted peanuts

Boil a pot of water. Put the noodles in a bowl, and cover with the boiling water by a couple of inches. Soak for two to three minutes, until the noodles are soft. Drain well, and set aside.

Heat the oil in a small saucepan set over medium-low heat. Add the garlic, and cook, stirring, for a minute or two. Add the tomato paste, tamarind paste (see Cook’s note), lime juice, soy sauce and sugar, and stir until the sugar dissolves and the sauce is smooth. Add the tofu, and stir gently until evenly coated.

Put the noodles in a serving bowl, then pour in the sauce-and-tofu mixture and toss together with tongs. Top with the carrots, cabbage, sprouts, scallions and peanuts, and serve right away.

Cook’s note: A staple in Southeast Asian cooking, tamarind paste is sold in Indian and Asian markets and in some supermarkets. In a pinch, you can substitute the more widely available pomegranate molasses (sold in most supermarkets), which has a similar sweet-sour tang.

Yield: 6 servings

Recipe from “The Accidental Vegan” by Devra Gartenstein (Celestial Arts, 2009)

HEARTY POTATO-AND-LEEK SOUP

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 onions, peeled and chopped

2 leeks, white and green parts, sliced

3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

2 tomatoes, seeded and chopped

4 cups vegetable broth or water

4 to 5 potatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes (about 4 cups)

1 teaspoon crushed dried rosemary

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 (14- to 19-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed (optional)

2 cups fresh spinach (optional)

Heat the oil in a large saucepan set over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for three minutes or until slightly soft. Stir in the leeks, and cook, stirring occasionally, for six minutes or until soft. Add the garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, for three minutes.

Add the tomatoes, broth, potatoes and rosemary. Stir, and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer for 20 minutes or until the potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife.

Transfer 3 cups of the soup to a blender. Puree until smooth. Return to the saucepan, and season to taste with salt and pepper. If using the chickpeas and/or spinach, add them now. Cook on low heat for a few minutes, until chickpeas are heated and spinach is wilted. Add more broth or water if a thinner soup is desired.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Recipe from “The Vegan Cook’s Bible” by Pat Crocker (Robert Rose, 2009)

Marialisa Calta is the author of “Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family” (Perigee, 2005). For more information, go to www.marialisacalta.com.